Healthy hair starts with a healthy scalp.
“Think of it like fertilising your garden,” says Shelene Shaer, owner of Tanaz Hair, Body and Nails (1). “A good fertiliser ensures a healthy, strong, growing garden. It’s the same with your hair.”
Lifecycle of your hair
1. The anagen (growing) phase:
This can last between two and seven years. The cells in the hair root are rapidly dividing to create virgin hair at the base of the follicle.
2. The catagen (transition) phase:
This typically lasts between two and three weeks. After your hair has reached its maximum growth, it “rests”, a limbo-type period between growing and falling out.
3. The telogen (resting) stage:
This can last up to four months and is basically a fully formed hair. These hairs are technically dead and are the ones you find after washing your hair, on your pillow in the morning or attached to your brush. Once the hair falls out, the growing phase starts again, with the new hair pushing the old out of your scalp.
Strengthen your hair
The hair you were born with is the hair you will have your whole life, say the experts. You cannot make your hair thicker, nor can you increase the amount of hair you have. You can, however, make it stronger.
When looking for products for strengthening your hair, focus on those that are targeted for hair loss and thinning hair. Ingredients such as omega-3, zinc and arginine can all be of benefit.
Omega-3 helps to combat dry and brittle hair, hair loss, flaky scalp and reduced circulation to the scalp, while the zinc promotes the regulation and control of sebaceous glands that secrete oil onto your scalp and hair. (2) It also assists in blocking DHT (dihydrotestosterone), a primary cause of male hair loss. Arginine promotes circulation and relaxes hair follicles, which stimulates the scalp to promote healthy hair growth.
Other ingredients to look out for are ceramides, as these strengthen molecules, reinforcing the hair fibre and making it stronger from root to tip; polyphenols, which are antioxidants that protect the hair from oxidative stress; and SP94, a gluco-lipid that plumps up the hair and optimises healthy hair growth.
Feed your hair
Shaer suggests that you first look at your diet, as this is vital for healthy hair. Healthy hair is made up mainly of the protein keratin, with an inner layer of melanin that gives your hair its colour. The outer layer, called the cuticle, protects the hair.
Your hair grows on average 1cm per month. Speed depends on genetics, age and your hormone levels. Your hair growth may be affected by deficiencies in zinc or protein, anaemia and hormonal fluctuations that are linked to pregnancy, menopause, thyroid conditions or polycystic ovarian syndrome. (3)
What to eat for healthy hair:
Protein – Keratin is responsible for giving your hair its strength and flexibility. Salmon, grass-fed meat, chicken breasts, soy protein, beans and pulses are good options. You need to ensure that you eat a wide range of protein sources, to get as many of the amino acids as possible. (4)
Carbohydrates – A no-carb or low-carb diet can affect your hair. Trichologists warn that you may notice shedding effects around three months after starting a diet of this kind, as that is around the length of the hair growth cycle. A restricted diet in any form will result in dull, lifeless and brittle hair. Make sure you eat complex carbohydrates, such as wholegrain bread, brown rice, wholemeal pasta and oats.
Iron – A healthy diet with iron-rich foods will keep hair strong and healthy. Iron is found in dark green vegetables, liver and red meats, oily fish and egg yolk.
Omega-3 fats – Omega-3 fats are found in the cell membranes of the skin on your scalp. These oils help to keep your scalp and hair hydrated, and trichologists believe they play a role in the health of both your scalp and your hair.
Vitamin A – This is needed to keep your immune system healthy and to promote cell growth. Foods such as sweet potato, carrots, peppers and green vegetables are great sources of beta-carotene, the plant version of vitamin A.
Biotin – A lack of this B vitamin can result in brittle hair, or even hair loss. You can find biotin in breakfast cereals, eggs, cheese, yoghurt, kidney beans and chicken.
Zinc – This essential trace element helps to keep your scalp and hair healthy, as hair needs zinc for cell growth. Cereals, whole grains, kidney beans, oysters, beef and eggs all contain zinc.
What causes breakage?
There are a number of factors that can cause hair breakage, says Shaer. These include dry hair not being conditioned, and brushing wet hair roughly instead of using a tangle teaser or your fingers. “Daily heat styling is a real enemy, not cutting your hair often, and tight hair accessories. Possibly the worst is tight braiding, as this causes traction alopecia and this hair never grows back.”
Verushka Groenewald of Platinum Hair and Beauty adds: “Breakage can be caused by a lot of things, like overprocessed colour; incorrect home care also plays a big role.”
You get two types of hair breakage: mechanical breakage, which happens from ongoing heat styling with no heat protection, and chemical breakage, which happens when hair is overprocessed and weakened time and again.
“As the saying goes, Rome wasn’t built in a day, so don’t rely on quick and drastic colour change, as this will have a direct impact on the condition of your hair,” advises Janine Rom, stylist at Gary Rom Hairdressing Woodlands. “Treatments are very important when doing any colour or chemical service, as when we do these services, protein is taken out of the hair. Always remember to treat, as this will prevent chemical breakage.”
Protect against heat styling
“Start by purchasing good hairstyling tools, such as irons where you can control the heat settings, and hairdryers with a nozzle that distributes air flow,” says Shaer. She adds that you need to get to know and understand your hair, and what its capabilities are. “The more you try to change the texture of your hair, the more damage you end up doing.”
Groenewald comments that using a good heat-protector product is important, whether you blowdry or flat-iron your hair, as both put strain on the hair. “Also remember that the correct shampoo and conditioner are necessary, as moisture is the word for dry hair,” notes Shaer.
Colouring your hair
When you colour or highlight your hair, protein is removed. As you spend time in the sun and in water during the holidays, you need to ensure dual protein and moisture treatments, in order for your hair to be in the best possible condition, Rom states. “Even better, when we put this dual combination on your head, we use a K-Mist steamer, which penetrates the treatment further into the hair cuticle, which lasts longer in the hair.” Shaer adds: “At home, use a masque to treat hair weekly, and I would definitely look at doing a salon treatment every six weeks.”
Did you know?
Hair oil is like liquid gold for dehydrated or colour-treated hair. It can be used on wet hair before blow drying, or as a smoother and shine oil on dry hair and to ensure healthy hair.
Eliminate the frizz
Maameya Dankwa, brand manager of Vigro, explains that stress, pollutants, illnesses and medications can also cause non-genetic hair loss.
Two tips to put into action:
• A natural reaction when faced with dry, limp, even fizzy hair is to style it into behaving; this is a big mistake. Any extra heat from a hairdryer, hair straightener or curling iron will cause more moisture to leave your hair. Make sure you use the right heat styling products for that added protection and moisture.
• One way to increase the moisture in your hair is simply to drink lots of water. Don’t forget this as the weather starts to cool, drinking water is not only good for your body, but good for your hair too.
As with your garden keeping your hair healthy and strong is a matter of using a good fertiliser. Your diet, drinking enough water and using good heat styling products are all part of the secret ingredients for healthy hair.
The final secret: Trim your hair every six to eight weeks, as it reduces the risk of dry and split ends.