[vc_row type=”in_container” full_screen_row_position=”middle” column_margin=”default” column_direction=”default” column_direction_tablet=”default” column_direction_phone=”default” scene_position=”center” text_color=”dark” text_align=”left” row_border_radius=”none” row_border_radius_applies=”bg” overlay_strength=”0.3″ gradient_direction=”left_to_right” shape_divider_position=”bottom” bg_image_animation=”none”][vc_column column_padding=”no-extra-padding” column_padding_tablet=”inherit” column_padding_phone=”inherit” column_padding_position=”all” background_color_opacity=”1″ background_hover_color_opacity=”1″ column_shadow=”none” column_border_radius=”none” column_link_target=”_self” gradient_direction=”left_to_right” overlay_strength=”0.3″ width=”1/1″ tablet_width_inherit=”default” tablet_text_alignment=”default” phone_text_alignment=”default” column_border_width=”none” column_border_style=”solid” bg_image_animation=”none”][vc_column_text]Make-up can be a blessing and a curse. Did you know that certain shades and colors – although trendy and popular – might not suit your skin tone? That lipstick you are lusting after may very well be making your teeth appear yellow, your blush may be causing you to look older than you are, and your eye shadow may be making your eyes seem smaller than they are.
“The secret to your make-up style and colors is feeling comfortable, even if it isn’t the trend of the moment. You want to go with colors that enhance your natural beauty and make you feel pretty powerful,” says Gerhard Naude, make-up artist and Bobbi Brown education executive.
And while make-up can be a weapon in your arsenal against aging, when used incorrectly it can equally make you look tired, drained and older than you are. In this article make-up artists give advice on how to avoid those common aging makeup mistakes.
Mistake #1: Your foundation doesn’t match your undertone
Choosing the right foundation can be a tricky process. Too light, and your skin looks flat and lifeless; the make-up appears to just sit, which can add unnecessary years. Too dark, and you end up adding a dullness and heaviness to your face that is equally as aging.
“Choosing the right foundation depends on your skin’s undertone,” explains Lucoh Mhlongo, Elizabeth Arden national make-up artist. “We have cool and warm undertones. You may find that your foundation is the same as your skin color, but there is just something a bit off.”
The undertone is the color just under your skin; while your skin can change (with sun exposure, as you age, etc), your undertone doesn’t. There are three types of undertones: cool, neutral and warm (of course, you can fall somewhere in between). The same principles apply to all skin tones, from very fair to very dark.
Cool:
- Your skin will have a pink, red or blue tinge to it.
- The veins on your wrist appear blue or purple.
- Silver jewellery flatters your skin (more so than gold).
- You turn pink in the sun and burn easily.
Look for foundations with a rose, red or blue base.
Warm:
- Your skin has a yellow, gold or peach tinge to it.
- The veins on your wrist appear slightly green or olive.
- Gold looks better on you than silver.
- You burn or bronze easily in the sun.
Look for a foundation with a gold or yellow base.
Neutral:
- The veins on your wrist are blue-green.
- You can wear both gold and silver jewellery.
- You can wear foundation both with a blue or rose base and a gold or yellow base.
Match your shade in three places on your face, suggests German Moyano, international make-up artist, and retail and education make-up director at Lancôme. He recommends that you dip an earbud in the foundation and dab it on your forehead, the side of your face and your chin. If you can’t see the foundation, you have found your correct match; if you can, try another shade.
To put on your foundation, you should squeeze a little (usually one pump) on to the side of your hand at your thumb, and, using a foundation brush, work the foundation on lightly from the outside of your face, gently feathering down your nose and in towards your cheeks.
Mhlongo recommends that you don’t put foundation directly under your eyes – rather use a concealer to highlight this area, so as to “lift your face”, creating depth. This gives you a fresh-faced look without appearing too heavy or coated.
Mistake #2: Your lipstick is too dark
As you get older, you lose definition in your lips. To appear more youthful, you will want to choose a lipstick that adds fullness to your lips. Unfortunately, dark colors tend to do the opposite, making your lips appear smaller and thinner.
“When choosing a lipstick, let your lips be your guide,” says Naude. “Bobbi Brown says that lipstick colors one or two shades darker than your natural lip color are the most flattering.” He adds that the best lipstick is the one that makes your face look brighter without wearing any other make-up.
“Lipstick shades that are more than one tone lighter than your lips will look ashy and grey. Blue and yellow are opposite colors on the color wheel; that is why lipstick colors formulated with a blue base will cancel out yellow or orange tones on the teeth.”
Mhlongo adds that, once again, you need to look to your undertone. Everyone wants to have lipstick that perfect shade of red – what better color to make you feel strong, sexy and confident? However, a red that looks fantastic on your friend (who may have the same complexion as you) just doesn’t look the same on you.
Mhlongo suggests that if you have a cool undertone, go for a blue-undertone lipstick, while if you are warm, rather opt for an orange-undertone lipstick. Luckily, those who have neutral skin undertones can wear either. “If you decide on a red lip, make sure the undertone complements your skin tone; then you line your lips with a lip liner pencil (this also ensures that the color will stay), and fill the entire lip with the red liner. Make sure to smile, because this pulls the lines. Then apply the lipstick to bring texture and accentuate color on the lip. Then you clean and perfect the red lip by using your concealer and foundation brush. This also highlights the lip, giving it an extra pout.”
And while matt shades are in this winter, don’t be afraid to give them a touch of gloss, which can add a youthful plumpness. Moyano recommends that you choose the same shade as your lipstick, and gently tap your fingertips on the centre of the lips.
Mistake #3: The wrong shade of blush or no blush at all
Blush is a challenge. Some women tend to use nothing at all, resulting in a washed-out complexion; some choose a browner shade, as they feel this is adding definition or contouring (but instead just dulls and muddies the face); while others choose a shade that is too light or soft, which makes you look older than you are.
Naude explains that as there are so many blush options available, it is important to choose one that makes you look fresh, pretty and healthy. “The best way to choose a blush is to go shopping and to try the blushers, to see how the colors look on your skin. Go for a natural blush that replicates the color of your cheeks after you’ve had a good workout. When you go to the store, pinch your cheeks to remind you of the color. Hold up different shades next to your cheeks to see how they change your look, and if they don’t look too orange or dull.”
He suggests these basic rules:
- For very pale skin, use soft pastels without any brown tones.
- For light skin, use pale-pink tones.
- For medium skin, use sandy pinks to tawny tones.
- Olive skin tones look best with rose to deep-pink tones.
- Dark skin likes soft plums to cranberry tones.
Naude adds that if you have dry skin, opt for a cream blusher, as this will leave your skin looking dewy. When it comes to applying, start at the height of the apple of your cheek and blend it up and back.
Avoid applying blush on the bottom of the cheekbone; you will want to place it higher to define and lift your features.
Mistake #4: Overdoing the eyes
When it comes to your eyes, create the right foundation. “Start with a good eye cream, corrector and concealer to brighten and neutralize discoloration under the eye. Bobbi Brown calls it the secret to the universe,” says Naude. He adds that pink tones neutralize pinky-blue darkness, and peach tones neutralize purple-brown darkness.
Mhlongo reiterates that when it comes to make-up, simple is better. Choose one focal point, be it the eyes or the lips. If you are going for bright, bold lips in raspberry, tangerine or red, make sure your eyes are more subtle.
“Use a subtle complementary-color eyeshadow to add hints of color to the eye. But be aware of the texture of the eyeshadow, as shimmery eyeshadows accentuate the line; rather opt for velvet and matte colors, always blending, of course. A thin liquid liner will add intensity, while the mascara will give you a wide-eyed, youthful look.”
Naude believes that when choosing eyeshadow, you want to go with colors that enhance your natural skin tone, without looking ashy, pink or grey.
“If you have redness around your eyes, stay away from shadows with red or purple undertones, as they will enhance the redness. Choose eyeshadow colors that contrast with your eye color. Warm browns and gold shadows are perfect shades for blue eyes, and purple for green. Brown eyes look best with eyeshadow shades like blue, pink and purple.”
And avoid applying eyeliner only to the bottom eyelids. This serves only to make your eyes appear smaller and you older. Applying eyeliner on the top will open up your eyes and brighten your face. Don’t make the liner too thick, as this can also be aging.
When applying eyeliner, try to get the product (be it gel, liquid, pen or pencil) as close to your lash line as possible. It should appear to be an extension of your eyelashes. Start at the outer corner and work your way in along the top lash. For a more dramatic eye, you can apply liner on the bottom eyelid as well; make sure that the bottom and top lines connect at the corner of the eye, and add a touch of dark shadow to the bottom of the eye to soften the look.
Mascara is the best tool to open up your eyes and to make your lashes appear thick, long and luscious. If you are touching up your make-up during the day, you don’t want to reapply your mascara, as it can then appear clumpy. Moyano’s trick is to use your eyeliner pen and gently “color in” the underside of your lashes for that fresh look.
Mistake #5: Untamed brows
As you age, so your eyebrows get thinner. Over-plucking can have the same effect. And wild, untamed brows are just as bad. You want to make sure that you have full brows, but that they are beautifully shaped.
Brush your brows into place, says Moyano, and fill them in with a brow pencil or powder, as this will help to define your features and create an overall more youthful appearance. Ideally, you want to aim for a product that is the same shade as your hair. For blondes, match your roots; silver or white, aim for a soft grey; brunette or redhead, go for a mahogany or sable. If you have fair to medium skin, avoid a red-based brow product, and if you have a darker skin tone, opt for something that has warmth.
Square the head of your brows off with your product and then bring the color through the arch to where your brows naturally end. Mhlongo adds that you can blend using a wand brush, and perfect your brow with concealer, creating a clean shape to the eye.
Tip: Bronzer can be a great way to highlight your skin – but avoid being too generous, as wearing bronzer over your entire face can make you look older. Stick to the “C” formation, gently sweeping on the temples, along the sides of the face and just under the cheekbones.[/vc_column_text][/vc_column][/vc_row]